Friends, I am writing you from the Oslo Freedom Forum, the human-rights conference here in the Norwegian capital. For yesterday’s installment, go here. Just wade into Part II?
A reception is held at City Hall, in a beautiful upper room. As we enter the room, we’re greeted, individually, by the mayor himself: Oslo mayor Fabian Stang. That’s a big name in Norway, Stang. For example, it belonged to the country’s first prime minister, in the long-ago union with Sweden. Moreover, Mayor Stang is the son of a famous actress, Wenche Foss, who passed away in March.
She was born in 1917, the year America entered the world war — when this city, Oslo, was still called Kristiania.
Advertisement
Thor Halvorssen, father of the Freedom Forum, makes some excellent remarks on the universality of human rights. Shirin Ebadi, the 2003 Nobel peace laureate, adds her own comments. (It’s here in City Hall that the Nobel ceremony takes place.) And the view outside the giant windows, of Oslo Harbor, is amazing. Absolutely amazing.
Scandinavia can be striking.
Earlier in this journal, I mentioned that I heard church bells, off in the distance. They were playing “Love Me Tender.” The effect was really nice, as well as surprising. But was the tune an indication of the secularization of society? Well, I believe the bells I heard were those of City Hall. Because, on a walk near the hall, I hear its bells play: “When I’m Sixty-four,” the Beatles song.
Elvis and the Beatles, live from Oslo’s city hall? Seems so . . .
At dinner one night, I talk to an elegant Venezuelan couple. They are wrestling with a question, and have been for a few years: When to leave? When should they leave Venezuela, which they very much do not want to do? The Chávez grip is not getting any looser.
What a terrible question to have to face: whether, or when, to leave one’s country.
Okay, this is strange — one of the strangest things I’ve ever reported in Impromptus. It’s almost like a dream. If you don’t believe it — I don’t entirely blame you.
In the lobby of the Grand Hotel, I’m talking about China with a prominent human-rights lawyer. We’re talking about the recent Chinese state visit, in Washington: President Obama really laid on the dog for them. (I am not making any cute culinary reference.) The American and the Chinese flags were entwined on Pennsylvania Avenue. Lang Lang, the piano phenom, did his act at the big banquet. And so on.
It’s about 11 o’clock — 11 p.m. — and I’m fulminating about the state visit, making particular points about Lang Lang: who is a vice president of the CCP’s youth arm, the All China Youth Federation.
At about 11:20, we’re still standing in the lobby, talking about China. And in walks Lang Lang. Out of nowhere, he walks into the lobby of the Grand Hotel, in Oslo, Norway. Over the lawyer’s shoulder — for his back is turned to Lang Lang — I say, “Speak of the devil.” Accompanying Lang Lang are two or three people, and much baggage. He heads briskly into the elevator.
I scratch my head even as I write (although it’s hard to type and scratch your head at the same time). What are the odds of what I’ve described? Can some mathematician, or statistician, or probabilities expert, tell me? Holy-moly.
The next day, I check Lang Lang’s website: whose calendar explains that, on the night of May 10, he is playing a recital here in town.
So, so, so weird . . .
I meet a young Japanese-American woman named Madison. Her parents named her after James Madison. “People sometimes think I was named after Madison Avenue,” she says. “But I was named after the father of the Constitution.”
Do you love it?
You know, as I think about it, I’m not even sure she’s a Japanese American — she may be a Japanese citizen only. Even more remarkable and fantastic.
Thor opens the conference, formally, at the Christiania Theater. He says that human rights can be “interesting” and even “exciting.” The first name he mentions — appropriately enough, I think — is Solzhenitsyn, that great witness.
He also makes what I regard as a damn good point. I don’t think I’ve heard it before — not put quite this way. “Consider the environmental movement,” he says. “How we treat the earth is a central cultural issue today. But how we treat each other is equally important, if not more important.”
Oh, yes.
The Christiania/Kristiania thing may be a little confusing. Let me do a little chron:
The name of the capital was originally Oslo. Then, following a great fire in 1624, it became Christiania, after King Christian IV. For more than four centuries — 1380 to 1814 — Norway was ruled by Danish kings.
Starting in 1877, the spelling was “Kristiania.” And, in 1925, the capital became Oslo again.
Hope you have that memorized, for the quiz . . .
In Part I, I mentioned Zoya Phan, the young Burmese activist. She speaks again in the theater. She says that, where Burma is concerned, the world is not helpless — maybe not as helpless as it thinks. “The regime in Burma is not immune to international pressure. It’s that the right kind of pressure has not been applied.” She says that “carefully targeted sanctions” would be most welcome.
She makes this point, too: that the regime survives and thrives on lies. Lies it tells about how great it is, and what reforms it is implementing. Often, foreigners repeat these lies — and that includes the U.N. secretary-general. I think of the great Solzhenitsyn admonition: “Live not by lies.”
At the end of her remarks, Zoya says, “All we want is to live in peace and without fear. To live side by side, different but equal. We would like to be able to elect our own government. We would like human rights to be respected. And people like me” — exiles — “just want to go home. Please help us go home.”
I lived for 14 years in Poland, Bulgaria, and Serbia, and married a Polish girl.
On a recent trip to Minsk, Belarus I was again reminded of the pulchritude gap. As I walked around the city the thought that kept going through my minds was, "Omigod she's beautiful! Omigod she's beautiful!"
I remember that Lewis comment from the cruise. So good.
Look how people who yearn for freedom in a closed society understand the need for sanctions and embargoes to weaken the tyrants, yet people who live in freedom are ready to ditch the embargo to Cuba.
One, I recently watched the recent movie about Gilbert & Sullivan "Topsy-Turvy" with the director's commentary. The director said that the only big anachronism they had in the movie is that they have Gilbert refer at one point to "Oslo" when it was still Christiana at the time the movie takes place.
Second, Madison has recently been one of the most popular names for girls in the US. Now, the Japanese lady that Jay refers to may have been named after James Madison, but it is agreed that the popularity of the name here is due to the name of Darryl Hannah's mermaid character in the movie "Splash" who took the name when she visited New York City and needed a "human" name which she got off a sign along--Madison Avenue.
If you want to waste time on Google Satellite, and become thoroughly nauseated at the same time, spend a lot of time looking at North Korea. There is a road that is a major road in South Korea, but turns to a narrow, what looks like dirt road once it enters North Korea. I found one of the gulags, too. Pyongyang is an interesting view on Google Satellite, too.
Jay--I had a similar experience with wierdness at the Dallas airport a year or so ago. I had just read a review of Salman Rushdie's "The Enchantress of Florence" on the flight in from LA. I was making my way through the crowd to my connecting flight when who should approach from the opposite direction but...Salman Rushdie. I stared at him with what was no doubt a dumbfounded look. He hesitated for a moment as I blurted out "I love your work!" With a wan smile and a relieved look, he said thank you and hurried on.
You say there are more Norwegian-Americans than Norwegians.
I was reminded of that this past fall. I am a 3rd generation Norwegian-American from North Western Wisconsin. When I travel to other parts of the country (including southern Wisconsin), people tell me I talk funny.
But in Western Minnesota, even the attractive TV weather ladies talk in a Norwegian accent that even I can pick up. None of this slick TV talk with no noticable dialect. And North Dakota....holy smokes.
A large part of the US, from western/northwestern Wisconsin, through Minnesota, north Iowa and the Dakota is still heavily Norwegian.
Years ago was active in a car club, and one of the quirks of this group of enthusiasts was to name our cars. But much like naming a dragon on Pern, the car had to give you it's name; you couldn't force it. One lady was struggling because the name wouldn't come. She couldn't even decide if the car was a girl or a boy. (Okay, we were weird.) But then she recounted a story about the car, and a winding road, and an encounter with a bridge abutment. Bingo! "Madison." (The Bridges of Madison County had just been turned into a major motion picture.)
re: "What are the odds of what I’ve described? Can some mathematician, or statistician, or probabilities expert, tell me? Holy-moly."
I am not a statistician but my father has a PhD in statistics and probability (and I stayed in a Holiday Inn Express last night!). I'll tell you what he always told me when I asked him the odds of some improbable event that I had witnessed: "Seems the odds are 100%." Always made me laugh, but I'm a nerd that way.