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Editors
note: Click
here to read the previous installment of Derbyshire's China dispatches.
Stay tuned tomorrow for another installment.
Changchun, NE China, Week of July 7th to July
14th, Part I
The high point of our first day in the Northeast which, by the
way, nobody in China ever refers to as "Manchuria" was a
visit to pay our respects to Taiye (pronounced "tie-yeah"). The literal
meaning of "Taiye" is "Ultimate Grandpa". Our particular Taiye is Rosie's
father's father, progenitor of the whole paternal side of Rosie's family,
which now numbers 34. Taiye was born in the lunar year called yi shi
in the old style, most of which fell in 1905. By the traditional Chinese
reckoning, according to which you are one year old at birth and two when
your first lunar New Year comes around, he is 97, and that is how he was
advertised to me. However, Taiye first saw light of day on the third
day of the twelfth lunar month, which most likely means in the early days
of 1906, so we would consider him only 95. We found him sitting on his
bed: He has had much difficulty walking this past couple of years, though
he was riding a bicycle well into his nineties. Still a thickset ox of
a man, he is perfectly bald and has a plump red face glowing with qi
the vital force in traditional Chinese physiology, pronounced "chee."
He looks, in fact, exactly like Shouxing Lao, the old man with the bulbous
forehead you see in collections of Chinese porcelain figurines, the embodiment
of longevity. Though somewhat deaf, Taiye is clear-headed and still reads
his newspaper every day. He invited me to quiz him on current affairs.
I asked him to name the current president of the United States. "Bu-shi!
Difficult election!" The British prime minister? "Bu-lai-er!" Russia?
"Pu-ting!" Then he asked me if Soong May-ling (Chiang Kai-shek's widow)
is still alive. I said I thought she was, and 102 years old the last
time I checked. People of these very oldest generations like to keep
careful track of each other. Taiye has had two wives and ten children
five boys and five girls. (Oddly, his given name in Chinese is
"Jiwu," which means "lucky five.") His second wife died this last February
in fact, but no one has told him yet. Husband and wife had been living
apart for some years, since his physical attentions became too much for
her. In his late eighties, Taiye was still insisting on his conjugal
rights, an aspect of the marriage in which his wife had by that time lost
all interest. The last straw was when Taiye broke down the bedroom door
she had locked against him. Talk about vital force! At the dinner table
he invited me to arm-wrestle him Chinese style, the arms straight
and unsupported. I felt embarrassed to take up the challenge, but the
company, all knowing smiles, insisted. Taiye beat me in less than ten
seconds. The Ultimate Grandpa.
Some dinner-table
talk on politics. Taiwan? Nobody can see what the difficulty is. "Hong
Kong and Macao came back to the Motherland with no trouble. Why should
Taiwan be any different?" The Communists? The late Deng Xiaoping is
credited with the tremendous improvement in living standards this past
20 years, but the present leadership seems to inspire little affection.
The thing Chinese people want above all else is to be a normal nation,
like Australia or Germany or Japan. At some level just below the verbal,
even quite unintellectual people like my relatives understand that this
dream cannot be attained while the communists are still in power. Nationalism
trumps everything else here though, and the people will rally behind even
the present lackluster leadership if their patriotic sensibilities are
pricked which they very easily are.
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