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he
air horn squeals three times. You've got six minutes. The crew,
your two brothers, are setting the downhauls and freeing up sheets.
You're propped up on the stern, fiddling with the tiller, scheming
to cross the starting line exactly on time.
You take a
second to look over the fleet. There's Gretchen, skippering the
"Mary B." Twenty years ago she crewed for Bunny on that
boat. Sail number "350" that's Peter, the guy who,
as a kid, used to scream at your sister's mistakes so loud you could
hear the fights on shore. But that was before he bought Bunny's
boatyard, married a lovely wife and became, well, almost kind.
The horn blows
at five minutes and the Rhodes 18 flag goes up, and you still haven't
figured out the course.
Rhodes
18's are handsome boats, with tall masts, well-proportioned
sails and full hulls that sweep up to elegant bows. The small day
sailors were one of the earliest designs of Philip Rhodes, architect
of the 1962 America's Cup-winning "Weatherly" and a man
famous for hulls of gracious lines.
But for some
reason the boat never sold especially well, and only a thousand
or so have been built since 1938. As a result, the Rhodes 18 Nationals
Regatta, sometimes called the "Rhodes 18 Internationals"
or "Rhodes Intergalactics," are small affairs between
two or three yacht clubs, themselves little more than shingled sheds
on the ocean's edge. These "national" races that rarely
get more than 20 crews to compete.
And that may
be the greatest luxury of an otherwise simple boat. America thrives
on its restless drive, and celebrates success especially
in sports with million-dollar contracts, thousands of pages
in glossy magazines. It's Michael Jordan, not Philip Rhodes, in
whom the world sees our strength.
But most of
us are happy to know a different kind of country, especially in
the summer, when we settle into all those small associations, "little
platoons," and pursue pastimes unfashionable and obscure. On
an afternoon off the coast of Maine, you can give thanks that beautiful
old boats are still sailed for no better reason than that they are
still adored.
The final horn
blasts and the fleet spills across the line, sixteen sterns ahead
of you and none behind.
Sailing is
relaxing. Racing sailboats is nerve-wracking. If you're not
going to do it well, it's probably best to fail with only family
and friends looking on.
The first mark
of a race is always directly to windward, exactly where no boat
can sail straight on. The best you can do is zig 45 degrees in one
direction, then zag back. Some skippers, trusting their judgment,
light out on a long course, making one brilliant tack halfway through
to sweep down right on the mark.
It's the kind
of risk only fools and geniuses take. Peter does that. And he's
not a fool.
Most skippers
would rather hang around in the middle of the course, carving back
and forth across each other's bows as if their boats were out courting.
And this leg of the race can be just as cruel as a high-school dance.
One minute a boat is charging for you, the next it has turned on
a tight corner and swung violently away. That's when the crew glances
over their shoulders, quietly measuring their gain.
Dissed like
that, you're tempted to "pinch." It's a fatal mistake.
When you're racing upwind, the sails catch the breeze like airplane
wings; they need airflow on both sides to give you lift. But that
means you have to head off the tightest possible course,
just a little, and let the sails fill.
It is tempting
very tempting to try to shorten your course
by pointing on the sharpest zig that you can. But then the sails
will luff, the boat will slow, and the crew that just cut you dead?
They will leave you behind, hundreds more yards ahead.
Not that I
speak from personal experience.
In college
there was the student paper, campus politics, and I paid as little
attention to the Rhodes 18 as I did to my family. But then I discovered,
years later, that the annual regatta, like my family, was still
there, and the sailors, like comfortable cousins, showed a reassuring
indifference to anything I'd been doing during the rest of the year.
I fell in love
with Rhodes racing again when I got back from Eastern Europe, where
there had been precious few such "little platoons." In
the early days after the Berlin Wall fell, my friends there would
struggle to pull together new, small societies a high school,
a literary magazine. But the state still had to give its official
sanction to everything that moved, and after years in frightened
isolation, people had trouble mustering the trust to work together.
Sailing flourished
on the Yugoslav coast, but then the Balkans wars broke out, and
drunken gunners in the hills above the coast took delight in blowing
up sailboats moored along the stony shore.
Congratulations
you're around the first mark. Now comes the race's trickiest
part. You're going to sail with the wind directly behind you, so
you should pop a spinnaker open in front of you, like a parachute
that swallows the breeze. Yes, those spinnakers look lovely stretched
down the course, each boasting its own burst of color. And yes,
that Peter's blue-and-white sail out in front.
You can't trim
a spinnaker with quick jerks. You have to cajole it with gentle
little tugs on both corners. It's a moody sail that swoons and curls,
always threatening to tangle and collapse, and in our first race
my brothers and I were too scared even to try. But by the end of
the regatta we were just desperate enough, and found, to our surprise,
that we could get that sail to fly.
When we finished
the first race in dead last, Peter sailed over with some advice.
"First
get that jenny down on the deck! Second take the tension
out of that backstay!"
"Third
get your fat asses out of the back of the boat!"
That was as
much as Peter could muster before he'd sailed past. "Don't
make me come back here again!" he screamed.
We got over
the shock, then laughed. That night there were no grudges back on
shore. The
Biddeford Pool Yacht Club fed us splendidly well, and we played
ping-pong, lit campfires, and fondly remembered the great shouting
matches of the past.
Besides, we'll
have our revenge. Oh yes. Next year the Rhodes 18 Nationals are
next door in Barnstable. We'll have all summer long to get our neglected
boat into shape.
Something tells
me Peter's not too scared. And although we don't honestly stand
a chance in hell of beating him, it's good to know he'll be there.
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