Italy’s Lombardy, a Hot Spot for Eccentric Artists

Supper at Emmaus, 1601, by Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio. Oil and tempera on canvas. (Photo courtesy of the National Gallery, London)
A head made of fruits and vegetables, a beardless Jesus, and a saint full of arrows

NRPLUS MEMBER ARTICLE ‘Q uando, Quando, Quando” was a hit single in 1962 or 1963. It means “when, when, when” in Italian — when will we share a love divine, in a year, a day, or an hour? Connie Francis sang it in Italian and English, and it’s delicious. I thought of it the other day, when Vermont’s governor extended our lockdown for another month. It’s not love divine I’m after. It’s “when’s this freakin’ disaster gonna end?”

Vermont’s had 30 coronavirus deaths in a population of 660,000, in a place where there’s rarely more than one person per acre. Reserved and laconic, Vermonters invented


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