‘Laissez les bon temps rouler,” I hummed as my plane landed in New Orleans. I found good times in New Orleans in my own egghead, teetotaling, church-mouse way, mostly going to museums. I think the Big Easy must have sighed, if not sobbed, in disappointment. Little raw material in me. Jazz is good, but Chopin’s better, and I go to bed early. My clubbing days are not only gone but never happened.
Each day I was out and about by seven, 7 a.m. that is, having the French Quarter to myself, except for the small army hosing the streets and sidewalks from the last night’s debauch. I think the French Quarter is charming, the wrought-iron balconies fabulous, and I saw it all at its freshest. Oh, yes, and then there’s the Voodoo Museum. Irresistible. As Methodist as I am, I keep a list of people who’ve done me dirt – it’s so long and varied that it’s got its own Excel spreadsheet. Voodoo, I discovered, chagrined, in New Orleans, is a religion, and a religion of peace. Where have I heard that before? And “a religion of peace” is not my idea of voodoo.






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