On finally cracking the pie-crust code.
On finally cracking the pie-crust code
I can’t remember when I made my first successful pie crust. Honestly, I can’t remember the first time I made pie crust at all. Pie wasn’t exactly a family staple for me — no one in my family likes pumpkin pie, and only a few will touch pecan pie. Chicken pot pie made a frequent appearance on our dinner table growing up, but if we did a crust, it was store-bought. Otherwise, we topped it with mashed potatoes or biscuits. When my grandma lived with us, pie started to creep in, but even then it was a mostly forgotten dessert in our house. We’re decidedly and proudly an ice cream family, but recently, I’ve felt the urge to tackle pie crusts and become, if not a master, at least proficient in making them.
I have, mind you, made a fair number of pie crusts in the past few years. The most impressive was my attempt at America’s Test Kitchen’s Fresh Plum-Ginger Pie with Whole-Wheat Lattice-Top Crust, but instead of the lattice top, I took the herringbone option.
Recently, I came across a recipe I’ve had for some time but hadn’t ever used: Joanna Gaines’s pie crust recipe, and the attending quiche fillings for it.
I had a sudden and desperate urge for quiche. More on the delicious results of this recipe later. First, a few more words about the varieties and methods of pie crust.
My tastiest pie was from another America’s Test Kitchen recipe, this time featuring peaches. This recipe involves an all-butter crust and fresh peaches, and it is simply one of the most delicious desserts I’ve ever made.
Yes, I know I said all-butter crust. There’s going to be a melee in the comments section, declaring this or that fat “the best” for pie crust. The most common options are butter or shortening, and I know people who swear by lard. Pie crust, like coffee, brings out all sorts of opinions and ideas, and I’ve tried plenty of tips and tricks. Vodka, to help with flakiness, was one innovation. Another was to use white vinegar. One of the most clever is, yet again, from ATK, and it’s in the video for their peach pie. No one wants to eat pie with a soggy crust, and they solve that issue by essentially “waterproofing” their dough in a clever manner. This, and the fact that you use your food processor for most of the work, makes it one of my go-to recipes.
Speaking of food processors, I can be weirdly cheap about certain things, and while I did want a full-sized Cuisinart food processor, I didn’t want to spend $250 on it. The next best option? Haunt the local thrift store until something turns up. Lo and behold, an old model appeared, and while it didn’t have all the parts, it was enough to fuel my pie crust dreams.
Before the arrival of said food processor, I employed a few different means of making pie dough. Butter makes the pastry and pie dough world go ’round (butter contains water, which when baked turns into steam, which makes for flaky crust), but butter softens quickly when handled. This means you need to work quickly and efficiently when combining all the dough elements. Food processors (if you’re careful not to overuse them) help mitigate some of this, but another handy option is a pastry cutter. Sure, you can use two kitchen knives, but I find this method frustrating and inefficient. You might as well just use your hands — which is a very satisfying, if a rather messy, option. Pastry cutters require some elbow grease but do a fine job.
If you are keen on an even more labor-intensive version, try fraisage, a technique I use when making free-form fruit tarts. (I recommend everyone try a strawberry version of these in the summer. Heavenly.)
Gaines’s Magnolia Table cookbook (the first volume) offers a few different quiche recipes, and while I used to prefer the only cheese or mostly meat variety, my loyalties have since been swayed by the promise of Swiss and mushrooms. Regardless of what you fill it with, Gaines’s crust is simplicity itself, using only four ingredients (five if you’re blind baking). I nearly caused a scandal over Christmas by pleading with my family to break with tradition and do quiche instead of egg bowls for the holiday breakfast. Surprisingly, in the end, I got my way. We feasted on slices of egg, mushroom, and spinach quiche for multiple meals. It was the crust, however, that truly stole the show, and I’m giving credit to two things: my food processor, and flour from Sunrise Flour Mill.
Since Christmas, I’ve probably made four quiches, all for various events. While my rolling and crimping technique could use some work, I’m making progress and I haven’t had any sides collapse recently. Adding bacon to most anything will make you quite popular, but I’ve found that a good crust takes center stage each and every time, regardless of delicious fillings. If you happen to have any leftovers, take the time to reheat them in the oven for optimal crust crispiness.
No matter the flour or fat you use, just making a pie crust at home is worth the trouble, even if it’s just one time. And even better, you can make two and store one in the freezer for a special occasion. Or a random Thursday morning. Whenever and however you decided to make it, though, just know that only one person can claim the title of “Quiche Queen,” and I’ve already taken it.