The Corner

Not a Wonder-ful World

I like junk food as much as anyone, but I don’t understand the hysteria over the possible demise of the Twinkie, and nary a word of lamentation over the extinction of Hostess’s Wonder Bread. I mean, seriously, Wonder Bread is far more a part of Americana than the Twinkie. Since the first fresh, hot loaves came out of the oven at the Taggart Baking Company in Indianapolis in 1921, Wonder Bread has been a welcome part of breakfast, lunch, and dinner, indeed a part of the family. Twinkies may have fueled generations of late-night writing and homework binges by journalists and students, but what was purer or more uplifting than the snow-white perfection of “Wonder Bread”? What else more perfectly reflects America in the 20th century, its rise of supermarket consumerization, the growth of suburbs, the promise of efficient mealtimes? I know we’re a low-carb, health conscious, seven-grains society now, but without the hope of redemption implicit in Wonder Bread, I fear dark days ahead.

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