Derb, please assure your correspondent that Mocca, the Hungarian restaurant on the Upper East Side, is still open for business. But the great Magyar culinary institution in Manhattan can be found across the street from the Cathedral of St. John the Divine on Amsterdam Avenue and 110th Street, right near Columbia University. It’s the Hungarian Pastry Shop, and its manifold pleasures go far beyond the deliciousness of the palacsinten (apricot crepes). It is one of those places that is as it was decades ago, when I was a teenager and you could take a date there for $2. Prices are higher now, but it’s still an amazingly charming establishment. UPDATE: There’s some controversy about the status of Mocca. A self-described New York Magyar points out that the old Mocca closed a couple of years ago — but I was driving down Second Avenue last week and noticed that there was new on the same block with the words “Mocca Restaurant” on them. What a paradox. I’m sure you all care deeply in the Red States.