The Corner

More McDonald’s Shame

The appeasement continues. Now McDonald’s in the UK is reducing the amount of salt it adds to the fries it sells over there, in response not to consumer requests, but as a sop to the ‘health lobby,’ self-appointed, self-righteous busybodies who really, really need to get a life.

What’s interesting is that McDonald’s seems to have learned nothing from their french fry fiasco in this country. A recent comment I made in the Corner about the deteriorating quality of this important vegetable produced a deluge of e-mails, not one of them in support of the new McDonald’s fry. I’m told that no less an expert than Julia Child thinks they are a disaster. The problem? The old fry, the classic, was cooked in beef tallow, something that outraged vegetarians. McDonald’s caved, and the result, an insult to the potato, is ‘food’ that one can only want to nanosize. Arguably that’s a good thing, however: the new fries are, apparently, fried in partially hydrogenated vegetable oil (“transfatty slop,” in the words of a correspondent from Madison, Wisconsin), something that is far worse for you than good ol’ beef tallow.

The same correspondent tells me that she rarely bothers with McDonald’s fries anymore. If she gets a yen for fried potatoes, she cuts them up at home and fries “them in lard, tallow, or goose fat. With plenty of salt and pepper, of course.”

Now that sounds good.


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