It is always fun to gather first impressions of a foreign country. Turkey is, John O’Sullivan had explained to me, “upper-tier Third World.” That seems about right. The Third World–itude exhibits itself at once in the streets. The Turks’ own quip about their driving skills is: “In other countries people die by accident; here in Turkey we live by accident.” You get the point at once in Bodrum’s steep, narrow streets. Scooters are the principal peril. You have not tasted fear until you’ve seen a teenage Turk driving a motor scooter with one hand — the other is, of course, …