Magazine June 22, 2020, Issue

Dining Out

(Sellwell/Getty Images)
Life in restaurants

I  cannot recall the first restaurant I was taken to as a child, but my best guess is that it was what was then known as a “steak house.” Chicago, city of my birth and upbringing, was then the home of the country’s largest stockyard, and so it was a very beefy city with for the most part, in those pre-cholesterol days, a beef-loving citizenry. “Miller’s Steak House,” “George Diamond’s,” “Black Angus,” “Allgauer’s” are but a few of the names of the old steak houses that stay in my memory.

A standard meal in such a restaurant might begin with a …

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Joseph Epstein — Mr. Epstein is the author, most recently, of Gallimaufry, a Collection of Essays, Reviews, Bits.

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