I was once trying to catch a ferry from Turkmenbashi, the Caspian Sea port formerly called “Krasnovodsk,” to Baku, Azerbaijan. I was told that’s the easiest way to get from one side of the Caspian Sea to the other, and maybe it is. My advice, if you find yourself there, is to exhaust all of the other options first.
In order to get on the ferry — actually, in order to do anything at all in that part of the world — you must first present yourself to a sour-looking lady bureaucrat of indeterminate age and try to make yourself …
This article appears as “Terribly Tremendous” in the November 2, 2020, print edition of National Review.
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