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A Visit to The Last Supper in Milan, and Italy’s Still Italy

One’s a magnificent wreck, the other’s more convoluted than ever.

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Leonardo da Vinci, The Last Supper, c. 1495–1498, tempera and oil on plaster, Santa Maria delle Grazie, Milan.

Santa Maria delle Grazie

Greetings from Milan. I’m not beyond doing things on impulse, but it’s very, very rare. I haven’t been to the Biennale in Venice yet. It closes in late November, but in the spirit of carpe diem I used miles to get a free flight — only $54 in taxes — and got to Milan on Thursday morning.

I can go on adrenaline for a long time so visited The Last Supper. Leonardo da Vinci’s (1452–1519) slow-motion movie of a wall mural, painted between 1495 and 1498, is in the old refectory — the dining hall — of Santa Maria delle Grazie, still a church and home to a dozen monks but then a Dominican convent. Topping the church is an impressive dome designed by Bramante, from Urbino and the visionary who designed the Tempietto in Rome and introduced Raphael to Pope Julius II.

Brian T. Allen

About the Author

Brian T. Allen

Brian T. Allen is National Review’s art critic.

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