A Visit to Sarasota’s Ringling Museum

It’s both whimsical and serious, though its website is awful. And, Governor DeSantis, don’t mess with its governance.

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Philip IV, Madam Castello, and Salome among the stars at the Ringling Museum. Left: Workshop of Diego Velázquez, Philip IV, King of Spain, 1625, oil on canvas. Center: Promotional poster for Madam Ada Castello and Jupiter, featuring the equestrian performer Madam Ada Castello and her horse Jupiter, for the Ringling Brothers circus, 1899. Right: Robert Henri, Salome, 1909, oil on canvas.

Public domain/via Wikimedia

The John and Mabel Ringling Museum of Art in Sarasota is a rara avis, understood in part by knowing that its founder, John Ringling (1866–1936), was the circus entrepreneur who, with four of his brothers, merged their family-owned circus with Barnum & Bailey Circus. The circus behemoth that emerged defined the genre for decades. The Ringling Museum features a collection of circus memorabilia. No human cannonballs allowed, though — it’s a museum. Housed in a mansion named Cà d’Zan, Venetian dialect for “House of John,” it’s a 56-room mostly pink Venetian Gothic Revival estate that John and his wife, Mabel (1875–1929), completed in 1926. It was to be their dream house in Sarasota, a rising resort, and it’s furnished more or less as they left it, ornate to the nines. A vast wing in back surrounds an open, colonnaded Palladian courtyard. There’s the Asolo Theater, a small theater designed in 1798 and bought by the museum lock, stock, and arabesque cornice from its owners in Asolo in the Veneto and reassembled at the Ringling. It’s still a performance center.

In the last few years, the Ringling built an Asian art pavilion and also a pavilion for contemporary glass. There’s a lush rose garden, too, and a sculpture garden focusing on dwarves, fountains, and — located as the Ringling is on the water — sweeping views of the gulf.

Brian T. Allen

About the Author

Brian T. Allen

Brian T. Allen is National Review’s art critic.

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