I arrive in London early in the morning (as one tends to do, at least when one has flown from New York). London is waking up โ or has woken up in the last hour or so. People are going to work. Kids are going to school. The sun is shining (which is not very London).
โWho will buy / This wonderful morning? . . . Iโm so high / I swear I could fly.โ
Ed Koch once said something amazing โ coming from him. Remember, no one was more associated with New York than he was. He was the โquintessential New Yorker.โ He was the cityโs biggest booster.
But in an interview with me a few years ago โ see it here โ he said (I paraphrase), โNew York isnโt the most beautiful city โ thatโs Paris. New York isnโt the most interesting city โ thatโs London.โ (But itโs the most dynamic, or something.)
That is so right: London is the most interesting city, and probably the greatest city in the world. (Americans should be secure and confident enough to express such truths.)
โAs everyone remarks, London is a city of immense racial and ethnic diversity. There are any number of tongues on the street. Honestly, London makes New York seem almost homogeneous โ like Provo or Watts. Several of my British friends say that London is no longer a British city. Instead, itโs an international one.
Well, from this outsiderโs perspective, London is still damn British. A fish doesnโt know itโs wet. A Londoner may not know that he is still living in a British city.
โHowโs integration going? Assimilation? My friends tend to remark, โThis is more a religious problem than a racial or ethnic one.โ
But thatโs a subject we can return to some other time . . .
โThis is not very British at all: a violet cab. A violet-colored cab. What the . . .?
โWhen we first moved to Manhattan, years ago, I was slightly chagrined to discover that the New York cabbie no longer existed โ I mean, the native-born cabbie. The kind that took you to โToidy-toid and Toidโ (33rd and Third). I have almost never been in a cab driven by a native-born American.
Not that Iโm complaining. I could care less who takes me from Point A to Point B. Iโm just noting.
In London, the cabbies sport a riot of London or Greater London accents. The Brits I tend to see, in America, are Oxbridgians. Iโm glad to hear the greater variety of Englishes.
โMemo to itchy-fingers (unless Iโm too late): โI could care lessโ is an idiom I have come to embrace. Resistance is futile, or at least undesired by me . . .
โIn a London cab, there is this sign: โThe law requires you to wear your seat belt.โ I think of the drug debate back home, in America: Some anti-legalizers say that the mere law is a curb against drug use, not to mention sales. Parents and others can say, among other things, โItโs illegal.โ
โNever, I think, have I seen so many sports cars: Italian and German sports cars. The swankest, prettiest models. I think, โThey canโt all be Russian oligarchsโ โ that is, they canโt all belong to Russian oligarchs. I mention this to a friend later. He smiles and says, โIโm not so sure . . .โ
โThis is a little incongruous: a statue of Simรณn Bolรญvar in Belgravia (Belgravia being one of the swankest quarters of London). Or is there some congruity Iโm failing to grasp?
โLike many others, from all over the English-speaking world, I get a kick out of reading British newspapers. They are colorful, distinctive โ not-bland. Mark Steyn is always complaining about the โmonodailiesโ in the United States, and rightly. Our papers tend to be conformist and monotonous and zzzzz . . .
Of course, some of the British papers are not renowned for accuracy. I suppose boring and accurate is better than colorful and inaccurate. But colorful and accurate โ now youโre talkinโ.
โI have some trash to throw away โ not the newspapers! โ and I walk for blocks and blocks, seeing no trash can. I walk yet more blocks. I swear, Iโve walked for 15 minutes. Not a single trash can.
At some point, I remember: โOh, yeah: IRA. London did away with trash cans so that terrorists couldnโt plant bombs in them. Bastards.โ (The terrorists, I mean.)
Eventually, I go into a store, to ask a clerk โ โclarkโ! โ to throw the trash away, which she does, cheerfully.
I wonder: Given the absence or paucity of trash cans, how come thereโs not more litter? In fact, I see almost no litter. Odd.
โOne evening, I talk to an esteemed historian (British). He says that Barack Obama is the worst American president ever. โHe wins the George III prize,โ the historian says. Puzzled, I ask, โDo you regard George III as the worst monarch?โ โNo,โ answers the historian, โI mean he lost America.โ
โWhen itโs time to go home, I get through security at Heathrow Airport in nothing flat. They seem to have their system โdown.โ For one thing, they have very large bins in which to place everything โ and a guy or two are there to help you do the placing.
On the other side of the screening machine โ I canโt think what to call it just now โ I like the gentleness with which a female employee treats an African visitor. The visitor is a woman with a large and elaborate hair-do. The employee says, โIโm just going to have a quick check, love,โ and pats this hair-do delicately, almost affectionately.
โIn one of the terminals, there is a Ben & Jerryโs vending machine โ Iโve never seen one of those at home. Years ago, I had a discussion with a friend of mine about whether to patronize Ben & Jerryโs. I know Iโve written about this in Impromptus before.
The friend was a principled conservative โ very thoughtful. He grew up in Vermont, the home of Ben & Jerryโs. These people are such commies, as you know โ capitalists who make a killing, but commies, in a sense. Should we buy and eat their ice cream?
We decided yes โ because it was like the Left to make food choices and other such choices on the basis of politics. We didnโt want to be like that, if we could help it.
โI was in London primarily to interview Michael Gove โ the brilliant conservative writer who entered politics in 2005 and is now Britainโs education secretary. I hope you will enjoy a piece about him in the next National Review. He has no end of interesting things to say.
See you soon.






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