I was too lazy to sign in for the linked NYTimes article, but all who are interested in exploring these matters in the field should check out the Second Avenue Deli (on, where is it now? yes, Second Avenue), and Katz’s, on Houston Street. Katz’s still displays their WWII vintage slogan, SEND A SALAMI TO YOUR BOY IN THE ARMY. In ancient New Yawkese, it rhymes. (Don’t know if it’s related to Finnish, tho).