Peter: I cannot let all this negativity about Irish food (to which I myself

have, I confess, contributed) pass without putting in a few words for the

dear old Royal Hibernian Hotel, now I think turned into a discotheque, or a

mosque, or an abortion clinic, or something else suitably

Celtic-Tiger-zeitgeistisch. The RH had a wonderful kitchen, at the best

prices in the British Isles. Though as an institution it was, to be sure,

more Anglo-Irish than Irish, as can be seen from the name.