Taking a week off, I am in Israel. Last night, I went to a restaurant owned and run by Arabs in Jaffa, the historic old town alongside modern Tel Aviv. Alongside in the restaurant were tables, some with Arabs and some with Jews. A number of young Arab women were wearing the hijab and smoking in public in the company of boyfriends — something that would never be seen in any Arab or Muslim country. Bernard Lewis is only one among Arabists who suggest that women will be responsible for behavioral changes and modernization throughout the Islamic world. It’s happened here — not that this interrupts the anti-Israeli chorus of racism, apartheid and what-have-you.