IF you want to change money in Albania, do what everyone else does: approach one of the swarm of typecast Balkan brigands who cluster around the Socialist Party’s headquarters in the capital, Tirana. You probably won’t be ripped off. But you may come away surprised that such activity should flourish right under the windows of the political force emerging from the chaos of the recent revolution supposedly to lead this country out of destitution and tyranny toward prosperity and genuine democracy.
The paradox is that, until a few weeks ago, that was exactly the direction in which Albania was heading. In 1992, after almost five decades of by far the most brutal Communist regime suffered anywhere in Eastern Europe, Albanians voted into office the now scattered Democratic Party and rejoiced as its charismatic leader, Sali Berisha, became president.




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