70 Year Magazine Archive

Books, Arts & Manners: The Fourth Season at the Four Seasons

by Nika Hazelton

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Whether you like the holidays or whether you loathe them, you still have got to eat. And since even Christmas-haters like to eat well, I would advise them to go and spend some money on the best dinner in town. If you live in New York City, that means the Grill Room of the Four Seasons restaurant, where the food is as fresh as can be, quality all the way through, and sufficiently different and well prepared to make for a memorable meal.

The Grill Room gained fame as the luncheon place of New Yorkโ€™s richest and most influential men, who gathered there for the โ€œPower Lunch.โ€ I donโ€™t know what effect the market crash has had on Power Lunches, but I do know that at night, when the powerful men are not here, the Grill Room has become a much more attractive restaurant for ordinary mortals โ€”a spot where you might want to dine with your beloved, rather than a place where you might negotiate a takeover deal. The room has been totally refurbishedโ€”new banquettes, new carpets, new linens, new dishes, lights on every table, and waiters wearing the conventional black garb rather than the seasonal outfits for which the Four Seasons is famous.

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