Herewith, now that vacation season is upon us, a quick, opinionated tour of the Châteaux de la Loire. These are the places you really shouldn’t miss on a three-day trip; but should your schedule be upset by finding as you drive up to Blois at 11:58 that it is closed from noon to 2:00, some are marked as optional.
Angers (optional): If you’re approaching this region from the west, don’t miss it. A massive fortification of white stone and slate with high rounded towers that escaped total destruction on the orders of Henri III only because Henri III was himself assassinated in time. The deep moat has been laid out in formal flower gardens; deer graze in certain parts of it. A marvelous vista from the ramparts. The fourteenth century Tapestries of the Apocalypse, which are beautifully presented, should not be missed—even by those who don’t dig tapestry.
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