Last fall, after visiting some Yugoslav wineries, I took some days to gratify my heart’s desire: to see at least a few of the great Serbian Orthodox monasteries in the south of the country, and to catch a glimpse of Bosnia, Herzegovina, and Montenegro. Let me say at once that the trip was more marvelous than I had imagined, and that I barely skimmed a totally foreign world. It is a world that is extremely different from Italy and Greece, with none of the obvious ebullience of some parts of those countries, and infinitely more intriguing.
Here, I can obviously only touch on




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