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gundy, Chablis, and Rhine wine—the so-called generic wines that are named after a European wine region and with luck may actually bear some resemblance to the wines of that region (to be kind about the subject)—now want the so-called varietal wines. These are wines labeled with the name of the grape that makes up the largest part of the contents of the bottle. The legal minimum is 51 per cent (in the process of being changed to a higher percentage), but producers may make a wine that is 80, 90, or even 100 per cent one grape, be it Cabernet, Chardonnay, or whatever. Incidentally, the virtue of a 100 per cent varietal versus a blended wine is by no means confirmed; let us remember that the most exquisite Bordeaux are blends. Nonetheless, the public now demands to know what the public is drinking, and it is willing to pay stiff prices for that information. Varietals also give a producer a certain amount of class—witness the new varietal wines of Gallo, the house famed for its superior jug wines. Lastly, the public also is demanding to know the vintages of the wines. The Christian Brothers, who have always produced excellent wines at reasonable prices without naming the vintage, have now vintage-dated some of their varietals.

There is no question that California has become one of the best wine-producing countries in the world. How this came about, and how California wines have triumphed over French wines in blind tastings conducted by Frenchmen in France, will be dealt with in future installments of “Delectations.” □ The GIMLET EYE

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gundy, Chablis, and Rhine wine—the so-called generic wines that are named after a European wine region and with luck may actually bear some resemblance to the wines of that region (to be kind about the subject)—now want the so-called varietal wines. These are wines labeled with the name of the grape that makes up the largest part of the contents of the bottle. The legal minimum is 51 per cent (in the process of being changed to a higher percentage), but producers may make a wine that is 80, 90, or even 100 per cent one grape, be it Cabernet, Chardonnay, or whatever. Incidentally, the virtue of a 100 per cent varietal versus a blended wine is by no means confirmed; let us remember that the most exquisite Bordeaux are blends. Nonetheless, the public now demands to know what the public is drinking, and it is willing to pay stiff prices for that information. Varietals also give a producer a certain amount of class—witness the new varietal wines of Gallo, the house famed for its superior jug wines. Lastly, the public also is demanding to know the vintages of the wines. The Christian Brothers, who have always produced excellent wines at reasonable prices without naming the vintage, have now vintage-dated some of their varietals.

There is no question that California has become one of the best wine-producing countries in the world. How this came about, and how California wines have triumphed over French wines in blind tastings conducted by Frenchmen in France, will be dealt with in future installments of “Delectations.” □ The GIMLET EYE