On the Shores of Lake Keuka

There are four wine regions in New York State, which produces approximately 10 per cent of the wine made in this country, as against California’s 70 per cent. The Finger Lakes region is the best-known, a scenic landscape of deep, blue, narrow lakes carved out by glaciers between lovely rolling hills. The rocky soil of these hills is well suited to grape growing, and the waters of the lakes protect the vines from the murderous frosts of upstate winters.

The best-known wine town is Hammondsport, a charming, old-fashioned village, all tree-lined streets, with a village square that sports a weathered octagonal bandstand. Hammondsport’s drowsy prettiness belies the fact that it houses a multi-million-dollar . industry. The biggest of the wineries (and fifth in the nation, I believe) is the Taylor Wine Company, with its sister, the Pleasant Valley Wine Company, also known as Great Western. Taylor makes 27 different popular-priced wines, of which the Lake Country series (White, Gold, Red, and Pink) are the best known. Taylor wines are made largely from native grapes. They show how careful processing can improve labrusca-based wines (I discussed the problems of labrusca grapes in my last column, May 14). To drink, they are clean, agreeable, and a little sweet. Responding to the demand for more sophisticated wines, Taylor also offers three “Californewyork” blends: Ruby Cabernet, Emerald Riesling, and Chablis.

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Nika Hazelton

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There are four wine regions in New York State, which produces approximately 10 per cent of the wine made in this country, as against California’s 70 per cent. The Finger Lakes region is the best-known, a scenic landscape of deep, blue, narrow lakes carved out by glaciers between lovely rolling hills. The rocky soil of these hills is well suited to grape growing, and the waters of the lakes protect the vines from the murderous frosts of upstate winters.

The best-known wine town is Hammondsport, a charming, old-fashioned village, all tree-lined streets, with a village square that sports a weathered octagonal bandstand. Hammondsport’s drowsy prettiness belies the fact that it houses a multi-million-dollar . industry. The biggest of the wineries (and fifth in the nation, I believe) is the Taylor Wine Company, with its sister, the Pleasant Valley Wine Company, also known as Great Western. Taylor makes 27 different popular-priced wines, of which the Lake Country series (White, Gold, Red, and Pink) are the best known. Taylor wines are made largely from native grapes. They show how careful processing can improve labrusca-based wines (I discussed the problems of labrusca grapes in my last column, May 14). To drink, they are clean, agreeable, and a little sweet. Responding to the demand for more sophisticated wines, Taylor also offers three “Californewyork” blends: Ruby Cabernet, Emerald Riesling, and Chablis.