Somewhere on the Road to Damascus

Golan heights, Oct. 14—If you have a fast car, and are willing to step on it, it’s a two-hour drive from Tel Aviv to the Israeli-Syrian ceasefire line of 1967.

This means that you can leave a gaudy world of luxury hotels, New York accents, and eight-lane swimming pools, and in the time it takes to watch a football game reach an eerie, bombcratered plateau, littered with burnedout tanks, flattened houses, and blackened corpses.