—Richard O’Connellfrom the Spanish of Jorge Luis Borges being made to Hofmannsthal’s play Jedermann are unfounded: Open-air performances of that remarkable allegory about the death of a rich man have been a Salzburg specialty for decades, and the performance we saw was riveting. Any substantial change is bound to be a change for the worse.
All in all, I think signs are good for Salzburg. It is a mecca for tourists and it exhibits all the demotic paraphernalia such places specialize in. But one also senses a current—maybe it’s only an undercurrent—of genuine passion about culture, and not only musical culture. Diagonally across from the festival house is the Rupertinum, a small, fairly new museum (located in an old convent) devoted to modern and contemporary art. On display through October 7 is Czech Cubism, 1912-1916, a modest but scholarly exhibition of some 120 paintings, drawings, and sculptures from museums and private collections in the Czech Republic.




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