Hungarian food is one of the world’s best-kept secrets. It is, in fact, so

well kept that Hungarian restaurants have been disappearing from New York

City for years, as the “1956 generation” heads for Florida or… other

places. Now here goes Mocca.

(Though it is not quite true that “mocca” translates as “coffee” in

Hungarian. That would be “kavet,” with two long vowels: “KAH-VEHT.” Mocca

is a very thick syrupy coffee concentrate served in tiny quantitites with a

cube of sugar which, in Soviet days at any rate, refused to dissolve.)