North Gladiola, by James Wilcox (Harper & Row, 264 pp., $15.95)
The representation of “contemporary American culture” (that double oxymoron denoting a Sargasso Sea, or a black hole) through the grand-opening ceremonies of the new BurgerMat in Tula Springs, Louisiana—particularly as that ritual resounds with the dulcet dissonances of the Pro Arts Quartet— can hardly be bettered.




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