MOST people go to Las Vegas for the gambling. Dazzled by neon, crazed by greed and Wayne Newton, they challenge the odds, trying to outwit the trickster goddess, Lady Luck herself. But I was there for a different, wilier adversary. I was in town for the chicken. It was payback time, a chance for the revenge I’d been waiting for since that shameful, sultry night in Manhattan’s Chinatown all those years ago. You know the sort of evening—too much Tsingtao, not enough sense. Next thing, you’re in a seedy airless room doing something you shouldn’t: in my case, playing a chicken at tic-tac-toe—and losing. Years later I tried to track the bird down for a rematch, but it had flown the coop: dead in a heat wave, said some, off hustling in another hutch, said others.
Mr. Stuttaford is a contributing editor of National Review Online.





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