Salzburg — It’s really hot here, as everyone keeps pointing out. The weather may be the most boring subject in the world, but sometimes you can’t avoid it. A local lady told me, “This is the hottest summer we’ve had in 200 years” — that would be about 25 years after Mozart, who was born and raised here, but during the life of Beethoven, for example.
Even in the best of times, the coolest of times, the halls are hot at the Salzburg Festival. The Grosser Saal of the Mozarteum, I long ago nicknamed the “Grosser Sauna.” In all the halls this summer, patrons are sweating buckets, soaking their finery. Ladies beat fans determinedly.
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